Every accessible door and operable window should be protected. All glass windows should be protected with some sort of shock/audio detector. Windows can also be protected using alarm screens instead of contacts and shock/audio detectors. Obviously in a three story residence, the windows on the third floor cannot be opened by normal means; screens, vibration sensors or audio detectors should be sufficient if the windows are kept locked. Rather than contacting these third floor windows, the money could be spent on additional interior protection or other security features like fire detection. However, if you would feel unsafe with these windows uncontacted, contact them. It's your security and your peace of mind.

Garage overhead doors are a special case. A lot of people get these doors contacted and then pay extra to have the door bypassed automatically when the garage door opener is used. Since the only way to open these doors is by using the garage door opener, they are paying for the door to be protected and then paying more for it to be unprotected. Don't spend money to protect a door and then spend more to bypass the protection every time the door is used. Spend your money on additional protection or added features.

This depends on you and your installing company. Does the burglar seeing the switch go elsewhere because he now knows you have more than just a sign and some decals? Can the burglar defeat the contact just because he can see it? Some people cannot tolerate the sight of normal surface mounted contacts or feel unsecure because "the burglar knows what's there." Other people feel secure seeing the switches because "the burglar knows I really do have a system installed by a professional." Surface mounted switches often are easier to install. Although the price for installing recessed switches may be higher with some companies, generally prices run the same for either switch.

One hype concerning recessed switches is the size of the switch in a wooden door or wooden door frame. If the switch is recessed in the frame, you cannot see it when the door or window is closed. As long as it fits the frame properly without overlap, it does not matter what the diameter of the switch is.

An End-Of-Line resistor supervises the wiring between the alarm panel and the switch. Some panels have a limited number of detection zones and do not require EOL resistors. But if the panel can use EOL resistors to supervise the wiring, the resistors should be used. If more than one detection device is on a single detection circuit, the EOL should be at the last device. When feasible, every alarm detection device should have an EOL resistor at the device. If the EOL resistor is at the burglary contact on a door, the panel sees the wire open when the door is opened and sees the resistor when the door is closed. The thief who shorts wires together hides the EOL resistor from the panel, letting the panel know that something is going on. The thief who cuts the wire causes an open circuit, the same as if he had opened the door.

Hold-up alarms and Fire alarms use an "open circuit" detection scheme. The panel normally sees the EOL resistor at the end of the detection circuit. A short on the wire causes an alarm and a break in the wire causes a trouble report.

What makes EOL resistors so important is that they can supervise the wires only when they are at the end of the line. When properly placed in the circuit, EOL resistors prevent wire tampering on normal switches. EOL resistors in the control panel are usually ineffective. The usual net effect of putting the EOL resistors in the panel is that the panel acts as if it has no EOL resistors. Even open circuit devices like smoke detectors and hold-up buttons are not properly supervised when the EOL resistor is attached in the panel before the end of the line.

A smart switch does not just cause an open or short on the wire like a typical burglary detection switch. Normal switches can become welded into an inoperable state by high voltage like lightning striking nearby. The smart switch sends information to the panel constantly. If the switch is damaged by some high voltage event, it no longer checks in with the panel and the panel responds appropriately.

Usually the panel and smart switch are integrated. The panel "polls" the smart switch and the switch sends an "I am okay" message. The panel then polls the next switch. The cycle continues with the panel constantly asking for and receiving the status of every smart switch.

If the panel is armed and the smart switch sends an "I have detected intrusion" signal, the panel responds by setting off the bells or sirens. While the system is armed, if the smart switch does not report in for any reason, the panel responds with an alarm because a switch is "missing."

While the panel is disarmed, if the smart switch does not report in for any reason, the panel responds with a trouble report instead of an alarm. Extra smart contacts added to the detection loop without being programmed for the panel, should cause a trouble condition also.

Panels that use polling loop switches, popits or smart switches are generally more expandable. The polling loop can listen to many devices, each with a unique name, on the same pair of wires. Panels that use EOL resistors must have a set of terminals at the panel for every pair of wires. Every EOL resistor must have its own pair of wires. The simplification in wiring for smart switches can sometimes cut the costs of wiring for an alarm system significantly. However, the smart panels and smart switches generally are more expensive than standard panels.

Many factors affect this choice. The major factor is the construction and decoration of the premises. Can the location be wired and how much labor will be involved in wiring for the alarm? Will wireless devices be able to communicate to the alarm panel? Plaster walls with metal lathe in them can block the wireless signals. Large mirrors, foil wallpaper, metal lockers and other radio systems nearby might prevent a wireless system from working properly.

Do they check in so that the panel knows they are working and whether they need a new battery?

Should I have a light outside to tell a thief when the system is disarmed?

A lot of older systems required the system to be disarmed from outside. The owner of the property needed to know whether the system was armed or disarmed before opening the door. Lights were used to indicate whether the system was on or off. A lot of effort was spent to find a way to let the owner get into a protected property without announcing to anyone outside whether the system was armed or disarmed. The solution to the outside keystation was to program an entry delay for certain detection devices that allowed the customer time to disarm an alarm system from inside the protected area. These newer systems require a code be entered in a keypad after entering the premises. If your system uses such a keypad, we suggest not installing an outdoor "armed" light.

Some systems use wireless keys or wireless keypads to disarm the alarm system. These devices may be the only wireless devices on a traditional wired alarm system, or they may be just part of a complete wireless alarm system. More can be read on this topic by following this link to a document on enhanced security.

If a wireless key is lost or stolen, service is required to change the "key" immediately. A wireless key disarms the system with one press of a button; the system does not care (or know) who actually pressed the button.

On an average day in Sacramento, about 50 to 75 alarms go off and all but about one or two of them are false alarms. Many law enforcement officers report that in their entire career, they have never personally responded to an alarm that turned out to be a real burglary.

It depends on what you are trying to protect. Are you mainly concerned about protecting your property when you are gone? Or is personal safety while you are home your main concern?

Protecting your property can be accomplished with interior motion sensors. You will still need a contact on the main entry/exit doors but if someone comes through the window, a properly positioned motion detector will set off your alarm instantly. One such motion detector can protect many windows and most companies include at least one with their most basic system.

Outside bells can provide additional peace of mind, but there are also some drawbacks:

1. Outside bells often cause complaints from the neighbours, sometimes resulting in a noise citation.
2. If your bell goes off and neighbours do respond, they could be hurt by an intruder. When the police arrive, they may confuse a neighbour for a burglar.
3. So many bells go off these days, most people tend to ignore them. Also, bells are supposed to be programmed to shut off after 10 to 15 minutes.

If just trying to protect the property, the average systems cost between $400 to $600. It should include all entry doors, as three out of four burglars gain entry that way, and at least two interior motion sensors.

This is a security issue that is too often overlooked. Most homes have smoke detectors installed, but what happens if no one is home when they go off? More importantly, what if you don't wake up because carbon monoxide puts you into a deeper sleep?

A simple but priceless solution is to have at least one monitored smoke/heat detector to supplement the others in the house. This way, the fire department will come whether you are able to call them or not.